↑
FISH OFFAL
VS
SEA SNAIL
↓
The battle between north and south Vietnamese food, with chef Duncan Lu.
Words Tayla Gentle Imagery Ewen Bell & Supplied
↑
FISH OFFAL
VS
SEA SNAIL
↓
The battle between north and south Vietnamese food, with chef Duncan Lu.
Words Tayla Gentle Imagery Ewen Bell & Supplied
↑
FISH
OFFAL
VS
SEA
SNAIL
↓
The battle between north and south Vietnamese food, with chef Duncan Lu.
Words Tayla Gentle Imagery Ewen Bell & Supplied
WHERE I COME FROM, THERE’S PERHAPS
NO BIGGER INSULT...
than to be described as a ‘picky eater’. I’ll go to my grave with an adventurous palate, I swear to Bourdain. But a recent trip to Vietnam really pushed me to my culinary limits.
I’ve never had so much organ meat in so few days. I mean, my body was grateful—organ meat is exceptionally nutritious. But my brain was challenged. Fish offal, cow tongue, pig heart—you name it, I ate it deep fried, sauteed and simmering in a stew.
That’s the thing about Vietnamese cuisine, it’s so diverse. Here in Australia, we slurp through a bowl of pho and think that’s the entire Vietnamese national menu. But Vietnam is a true hot pot of French, Chinese and Cambodian influences. And there’s a longstanding culinary competition between the north and south regions.
Now, I’m no expert. Which is why I enlisted the help of actual expert, Duncan Lu—a Vietnamese Australian chef—on my recent travels. Duncan’s superpower is bringing Vietnamese cuisine to life, and as we travelled from Phu Quoc in the south, to Hanoi in the north, he talked me through the weird, the wild and the downright delectable dishes from across the country. Here’s what went down:
↓ THINGS GO SOUTH
We kick things off in Phu Quoc, a southern island in the Gulf of Thailand, made famous by its super high-quality nuoc mam (fish sauce). This is no small claim to fame, fish sauce is arguably the hero in most Asian cooking, used to add a salty, savoury umami depth. Great, sign me up.
The southern Vietnam landscape is a lot more fertile than the rest of the country, with rivers and canals criss-crossing the region. It’s also a hell of a lot warmer. What does this mean for food? It means there’s a heap of herbs and spices growing regionally, making south-side cuisine super vibrant and flavourful. Also, it’s sweeter thanks to a local preference for adding coconut milk to everything.
1. Sea Snail
Sea snails are a street-food/resto-food/home-food staple in Vietnam, and nowhere more so than the south. After a day spent fishing (by traditional hand-line no less) we sat down to a local dinner where the lazy susan was jam packed with dishes.
My personal favourite? A colourful, textural stir fry with an unidentifiable striped protein. The source? Sea snail! "Welcome to Vietnam, or texture town! We love texture here," laughed Duncan.
2. Bo Kho
"I like to say that this is a bit of collateral beauty from French colonisation [laughs]. When they came, the French brought beef with them, so this bo kho is a variation on bouef bourguignon. We might not be known for our wines, but the Vietnamese are known for their flavour pairings.
"The thing with this beef stew is that its just done super well, the sauce isn't too thin or too thick. It's definitely one of those meals you can eat for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Personally, at breaky I'd pair it with a bread roll, then egg noodles at lunch and a serve of steamed rice for dinner." — Duncan.
3. Bánh xèo
Also known as a Vietnamese crepe, this crispy rice pancake is super popular in Vietnam. And extra delicious down south. We stopped by a cooking class (at Hotel Melia Vinpearl Phu Quoc) where the chefs taught us how to make the batter—rice flour, water and turmeric—and stuff it with shrimp and pork and herbs. It’s like an omelette, but tastier.
“It's not deep fried or shallow fried, but it's fried just enough to have that crispy outer layer and chewy inner layer. It's this sweet, unctuous parcel... dipped in a tangy sauce." — Duncan.
Play to watch!
Places to be, packs to unload. Photo: Ewen Bell
↑ NORTH SIDE
Okay, so the north is the oldest Vietnamese region. Locals actually consider Hanoi the capital of a thousand years of civilisation. So, you know, mucho history (and mucho recipes). As we’ve established, northern Vietnam gets colder weather than the south, so the use of spices and ingredients are very different. Generally, northern Vietnam dishes are more savoury, mild and balanced—which is why many of the dishes are a hit with travellers.
Hanoi was our home base and food hub. We ambled through the wet market where women are hawking herbs; stopped for a Vietnamese egg coffee (not to be confused with a Vietnamese iced coffee); and ate our bodyweight in baguettes slathered in fresh pâté. S’wonderful, s’marvellous.
1. Ninh Binh goat
This village delight is a must-visit on your northern itinerary, not just for the historic temples and breathtaking waterways, but also for the goat. Yep, there's goat on every menu here.
"Goat is one of those proteins that goes hand in hand with the Vietnamese style of dining, for two reasons: taste and texture. The taste comes from the marinades, whether it's fish sauce or lemongrass... and the texture is from the firmness of the meat, the chewiness of the cartilage and toughness of the skin. Vietnamese love their food to have that bite." — Duncan.
2. Bún chả
"If you're in the north, you just have to have a bún chả. My advice to travellers: follow your nose. If you smell pork grilling on the side of the road—go there. If it smells good, it's going to be good. When it comes to restaurants, if you see a queue—join it." — Duncan.
If you're in Hanoi and feeling especially touristy, make a pitstop at Bún chả Huong Lien where Obama AND Bourdain once shared a meal. Their table is now a shrine, and their favourites still grace the menu.
3. Chả Cá La Vong
"100%, if you're in Hanoi, and you love fish, you have to get this dish. It's an iconic dish, that you just can't get in the south. This turmeric fish is served in a unique way, that really allows for the flavours to speak for itself.
It's soft in flavour, no deep fish sauce or fermented flavour used in the cooking or preparation. Instead, it gets floral flavours from the herbs (lots of dill) and its Vietnamese funk from the dipping sauce." — Duncan.
This fish dish is served over flame, and is generally tossed with fish flesh and fish offal (google it).
AT A GLANCE
↑ NORTH VS. SOUTH ↓
↑ In the North
Expect a more mellow and light broth, with less herbs. Always go the chicken pho when you're up north.
PHO
↓ In the South
Hello flavour central (typically use up to eight herbs in the stock!). You'll find beef pho on the menu most often.
↑ In the North
Subtle, sweet and not overly seasoned or doused in sauce. Expect dill, and lots of it.
BANH MI
↓ In the South
Big on sauce, big on flavour. A bahn mi down here might have the same ingredients but it hits different.
↑ In the North
Welcome to egg coffee territory, where a hot coffee is served topped with a light, fluffy egg foam. Delicious.
COFFEE
↓ In the South
Warmer temperatures call for cold coffees. Iced coffee here is made with deep, dark robusta beans and served with condensed milk. Yum.
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